Canada
Chapter 8
You will find that in
Canada you are required to purchase a Canadian National Park pass to enter their Parks.
Passes can be purchased per day or an annual pass can be obtained for about $50.00 (US).
Unless you are going to several Canadian Parks, or will stay for several days, a
day pass is a better value. The pass allows you to be in and use the roads in the
parks. You will still have to pay campground fees for a campsite. In addition
to the National Parks the are plenty of provincial, local and commercial parks throughout
Canada. Canada is camping country!
On Route 2 in Canada,
in the province of Alberta, just 12 miles north of Fort MacLeod is a very nice community
campground in the town of Granum. It has a lake with a path around it, a playground,
and a large meadow that joins a driving range. There is plenty of room to run and
play with your dog and it is very clean and well maintained. The campground is
actually cared for by volunteers from the town of Granum. The local farmers and
residents take turns and spend a day cleaning and improving the campground. It's a
comfortable stop with full hookups and has a flavor of Canadian small town hospitality.
You may even want to go into town and walk around or have a drink at the tavern.
North and west of
Calgary on Canada 1 is the popular tourist town of Banff. North of the town is a
provincial campground called Two Jack Lake. The campground is located in the
Banff National Park and a pass is required to travel here. The towns of Banff and
nearby Lake Louise are overpopulated with tourists .The season runs from May through
September. However, the scenery is breathtaking and we stay at least 3 nights before
heading on. The scenic drive marked 1A is not recommended, as it is too slow and
uneventful. You'll have a better chance seeing wildlife back at the campground.
Two Jack Lake is one of our favorite campgrounds. We try to request Campsite
#4, which overlooks the lake and is close to the trail and the bathroom facilities.
We saw lots of deer on our evening walks and the campground has 3 or 4
"resident elks". They tend to browse all over the campground and sleep
downhill from the washroom area. Be careful not to walk into them and give them
plenty of room. We were greeted by three of the elks when we left the
campground on our final day. Two of them had at least 12 points. We also
saw plenty of mountain goats, deer, and squirrels. The squirrels seemed to like the
taste of Tigger's sleeping quilt when we hung it on a line to air out. The
town of Canmore, east of Banff, is a good stop for supplies. They have a wide
variety of stores, a Laundromat, and a veterinarian that has a dog groomer as well.
To get to Two Jack Lake, exit The Trans-Canada Highway at Lake Miniwanka Road and
head north to the campground. Heading south on Lake Miniwanka Road will take you
into the town of Banff.
Two Jack
Lake
One of the resident Elk
You may want to see the
Icefields on Parkway 93 North. Columbia Icefields are located at Mt. Columbia.
Here you can park your vehicle and travel on a tourist bus to walk on the glaciers.
Pets are not allowed. We tend to save our glacier viewing for Alaska where we can
bring Tigger with us.
Typically you
will find that the U.S. Dollar goes a long way in Canada. The exchange rates are
posted daily in the newspapers and at banks. I like to use credit cards whenever
possible outside of the U.S. The charge is automatic at the rate of exchange on the day
the purchase is made without surcharges. The dollar amount on my receipt from the
purchase is in Canadian dollars and the charge on my statement is, of course, in American
dollars. This makes for an easy comparison of costs. As is the case
everywhere, items are more expensive in tourist towns and populated areas. It is
advisable to travel with several different credit cards. I have found, for reasons
still unexplained, some cards would not work in all areas. I have been told that the
stores don't have the necessary equipment to process the transactions or there was a
communication problem transmitting the request to the bank. Who knows? We
never encountered a problem with our American Express Card and traveler's checks were
always accepted. A local bank will give the best rate of exchange when cashing
traveler's checks or changing U.S. dollars to Canadian. We never converted more than
$100 at a time to Canadian money, as credit cards were widely accepted as were US dollars
(but not at as good an exchange rate from the merchants).
We chose to have phone
calls billed to our own long distance company when we made calls back to the U.S.
Before you leave obtain the 1-800# to access your preferred carrier from Canada. If
you use the Canadian service, the phone charge tends to be much higher.
Juniper Beach is a
provincial campground in British Columbia located on Highway 97 just east of Cache Creek.
All the campsites are along the river and most had electricity. There is a
small sandy beach, but dogs are not allowed to play there. However, there are plenty
of areas, where your dog can play Frisbee and run. Be careful not to let your dog
run into the sagebrush since the topography is a little desert-like with small cactus
under the brush.
A little south
and east of Cache Creek is Kamloops. We found a nice campground called Knutsford
Tent and Trailer Park with a stream running through it and a wooded hillside. The
park has full facilities and is near the town's shopping area. We were able to get
all stocked up with little effort. West of Kamloops on Highway 99 about 80 kilometers
south of Lillooet is Alice Lake Campground. This is a nice stop made nicer by an
informative campground host who gave us pamphlets and told us stories about the trees and
how to remember their names. He invited us to see the migration of toads going back
into the forest. He said that in some spots the forest floor would be completely
black from the newly hatched toads. We chose to forego the event and went to
Vancouver Island to see the flower gardens. My wife seemed to have a preference for
flowers over toads. Go figure? Alice Lake does not have hookups, but they do
have a dump station and fresh water. Tigger enjoyed his walks in the woods and the
tour of the trees, and perhaps he still remembers why the big fir tree tops droop over,
even if I forgot. I guess I'll have to go back to Alice Lake to find out (BC
Parks produce and give out an excellent booklet on the Trees of British Columbia.)
Knutsford Tent and Trailer Park
The closest full hookup
campground to the city of Victoria is Ft. Victoria RV Park. It is located about 2
miles east of where Route 14 meets 1A on 1A. It is an ideal location to tour
Victoria or Vancouver Island. If coming to Vancouver Island from Vancouver, be sure
and take the ferry that goes through the islands. It is a longer ride, but a
beautiful one, stopping at Orca Island and others along the way. If you bring
binoculars you may be able to spot a few whales as we did. Tourist information in Victoria
or Vancouver will be able to provide you with current departure information. We gave Tigger plenty of exercise before the four-hour ride and he slept in the RV for most of it.
There are many places to see in Victoria and most places are not for pets.
Parking facilities were always good and frequent trips back to the RV and a short walk
kept Tigger happy while we toured the city. We were able to take him on a horse and
carriage ride through the city. While at the campground we had to keep Tigger
on a leash, but there is an area along the railroad tracks near the campground that you
can let him run.
Tigger
looks out port hole on Ferry
Horse and Buggy ride in Victoria
When we headed toward
Alaska, we stopped at an Indian campground called K'san in Hazelton. It is located
east on Highway 16 from US 37. We toured an old Indian village open to the public by
the river and there was a nice, grassy area close by where Tigger could run. We went
to the town of Hazelton the next day and looked into a few shops and stocked up on snacks
before heading south on Highway 16 to Telwka.
We made our camp
at Ty Lee Lake Provincial Park. The campground was nice except they did not allow
dogs near the lake. We had to take him for walks in the woods and keep him leashed
while we were at the campsite. We saw another campground called Buckley's Field and
Stream about 5 miles south when we left the next day. We should have paid a little
more and stayed there to get some extra dog privileges for Tigger. It had full
hookups and lots of room.
We
have noticed that when we travel and play music, Tigger tends to go to sleep on the
couch. Either the music mutes our conversation so he pays less attention to us or
the music makes him feel content. He seems to have a preference for music from the
50's. He falls asleep as we roll along and pops his head up when we say
"deer" or "elk" if we've spotted one. He then takes his seat
right on my wife's lap to see what he's missing.
When we reached
Vanderhoof on Highway 16 we turned north to tour an old settlement at Fort St. James.
It is an 18th century trading post with period costumes and working replicas from
life in that era. Instead of choosing a provincial campground without facilities we
stopped at Stewart River Campground which has full hookups and is located next to a river.
There is a big hill behind the campground to walk the dog and pick up deadwood for
a fire. If you continue up the mountainside you will reach a large, grassy plain
where you can run and play with your dog. This was a wonderful campground for Tigger
and offered lots of hill climbing for us. Across the street from the Fort St. James
tourist office is an Indian craft shop that has good bargains on deerskin clothing and
shoes. The prices are about 50% lower than what we've seen elsewhere. The
Indian ladies of the village put their names on the items for sale and the shop is a sort
of cooperative for the local villagers.
Heading back south we
stopped at one of the most complete campgrounds in the area at Quesnel on 97 south of
Prince George. Robert's Roost Campground has full hookups, a nice little office
store, snack shop, and laundry facilities. It is located on a beautiful lake.
The grounds are well maintained and there are several big lawn areas to play with your
dog. We hear the fishing is also very good at the lake.
On Highway 37
there is a campground named Boya Lake. It is a provincial park, has no hookups, but
it does have fresh water and a dump station. Most provincial parks do not take
reservations and are on a first come, first serve basis. It rained the entire time
we were there but we enjoyed walking in the woods with Tigger. We got a kick out of
watching him dart in and out of the trees in his yellow raincoat. It's much
easier to take his wet raincoat off than to have to comb and dry a big, wet dog. We
could see Tigger better in the woods, too, as he is almost invisible without the raincoat
and blends into the trees with his brown and black color.
We made up for the
short day with an early start the next morning and stopped at Jade City to pick up some
Jade rocks and take a break. We continued on to Dease Lake and stopped for gas.
A good Samaritan pointed out that my inside left tire looked soft. Sure
enough, a poke with a board confirmed that the tire was bad and we drove a block or so to
a mechanic, to have it looked at. The mechanic found that the valve stem extender
had been sheared off by a rock. He replaced it, checked all the tires and we were on
our way again.
Earlier we had been
told Mt. Robson Provincial Park offers very nice campsites. This campground is
located just outside of the town of Jasper. There are also a number of campgrounds
located on Forestry Trunk Road east of Jasper. We have also passed these up, opting
to travel a little further. About 70 miles west of Jasper in the town of McBride is
a campground named Beaver View Camp Park. Beaver View has a dump station, electric,
and water hookups. The campsites at Beaver View have fire pits and grills and all
the campsites are well maintained.
McBride has the
last gas station heading north for about 145 kilometers. The next gas station is at
Prince George, which is also the crossroads to get the Alaskan Highway. To get to
the Alaskan Highway, take Highway 97 north at Prince George to Dawson's Creek. An
alternative, to reach Alaska is to turn west on Highway 16 and travel to the coastal area
to Hyder, Alaska. You can travel Highway 37 through magnificent mountains and join
the Alaskan Highway at Watson Lake. Just before heading North on 37 there is a nice
commercial campground located off Highway 16 called Kitwanga. The town of Kitwancool
and Kitwanga are Indian towns with several authentic totem poles located in the area.
If you are lucky, Chief Robert Good will tell you the story of "the hole in
the ice" Totem pole and show you the shed where they make new totems. Genuine
Indian crafts may be purchased at the town meeting room if it is open.
Al and
Robert Good Indian Chief view totem pole
Totem Poles in Kitwanga
We saw our first moose in a river off the Cassiar highway 37 when we stopped on an
overlook. He was feeding on the bottom of the river with his head entirely
underwater. In fact, from 300 yards away, we thought he was a bolder until his head
popped up. He had a magnificent rack with seaweed hanging from it and he just chewed
for a few minutes and stuck his head back in the water. He stayed under for 3
minutes before coming up for air again. Of course, by the time we got our camera,
the wrong end of the moose was facing us, but he finally turned so we could get a nice
shot for our album.
If you drive up
Highway 37 to the Alcan Highway, turn right and drive for 15 miles to Signpost Village
near Watson Lake. There are thousands of signs from towns all over the world.
They were brought and placed here by other traveler's on the Alaska Highway and, yes, ours
is there too. Takhini Hot Springs Campground can be found just outside of Whitehorse in
the Yukon Territory. It offers a pleasant rest with a refreshing Hot Springs.
The campground has a dump station, fresh water, and some campsites with electricity.
If you want to spend a few days, they also have a horse corral, duck pond, and an airstrip
near by. Forest fires, were occurring at the time we were there, so while campsites
had fire rings, none were permitted due to the dryness of the woods. Takhini Hot
Springs is located due north from Whitehorse off Route 2.
Watson Lake"Sign Post City"
Going west from
Whitehorse on Highway 1, you will arrive at Haines Junction and Kulane RV Park. This
is a full hookup park with a town close to the center of things. The unique Village
Monument, sometimes referred to as "the muffin" on the corner depicts wildlife
in the area. A church is nearby and there is a Forest Service Museum and Information
Center a few blocks from the campground. The campground also has a great trail
around it for walking which Tigger enjoyed.
At the Muffin
As we drove north, the
road condition deteriorated rapidly. It was a horror story of potholes, washboard
ridges, and poorly graded rocks for 70 miles. We were told that we missed the worst
part of it, too, by not getting on until after Watson Lake. Hopefully, it will be
improved by now. If you make the trip, just check with your auto club for
construction information and go slow and be careful. It's better to take extra time
and a few more travel days than to damage systems in your rig by jolts and vibrations from
the road. We met a couple pulling a 5th wheel that had to spend an entire day
cleaning up their trailer. Every cabinet and refrigerator door opened and broken
items were scattered all over the place. Unfortunately, "frost heaves" are
a way of life in the Yukon. This is when the ice pushes up the roadway and in
spring, the water and mud bubbles up through broken surfaces requiring more construction
and repair.
Frost Heaves
At Beaver Creek
there is a nice campground called Westmark RV Park. It has full hookups, nice shower
facilities, and good trails. Just use your mosquito repellent, because they will eat
you alive in early summer. Sourdough RV Park is located about 75 miles north on
Route 1 at Tok. They do have the best sourdough pancakes in the world. Get
there early because in the summer season you have to stand in line to get in. This
is a full hookup RV campground with free entertainment at 8pm every night. There is
also a wonderful lady who is an author and a resident of Tok that speaks on some evenings
about the area. One of her sons runs the Chevron station in Tok and we found it a
good place to service the RV. There are also lots of nice trails at the park
to walk and hike.
Willy Lou
Warbelow
Dawson City is located
on Route 2 in the northern Yukon (not to be confused with Dawson Creek, mile "0"
of the Alcan Highway). Goldrush Campground is located at 5th Avenue and York Street in
Dawson City. It had full and partial hookups, washrooms, a store, and satellite and
TV hookups. From Goldrush you can easily walk to all points of interest in Dawson
City. You can take your dog with you to town and quickly walk him back when you want
to go out for dinner or see a show. There is a lot to see in Dawson City and you are
far enough, north that you have 20 hours of daylight to do it in. There is a
Visitor's Center and Chamber of Commerce to fill you in. Dawson City is an old gold
mining town that reflects its heritage in its streets, buildings, and in its
entertainment. Don't be put off by the muddy streets, boardwalks, and saloons.
This is the home of Jack London and Robert Service. You can see a
"can-can" show at Diamond Lil's or take a short ride on a plane to the
"land of the midnight sun" at Tuktoyaktuk on the Beaufort Sea in the Arctic. The
flights leave around 8pm; you land around midnight, and return around 4am, all in
daylight. There are plays and poetry recitals and good restaurants with a friendly,
relaxed, country attitude. You can participate in foot races up and down a mountain
as the sun circles around without setting for very long. Dawson City is
colorful in every sense of the word.
Dawson Waterfront taken by W. Bunge
View of Dawson City from hill
Taking Route 2
south from Dawson City will bring you to "the marge of Lake Laberge" of Sam
McGee fame. Lake Laberge Campground is pretty and our site, #14, was right next to
the boat ramp with a clear view of the lake. They have grills, fire rings, and
picnic tables, but not fresh water or dump station. We also were under a fire
warning here and were unable to have a campfire. We had been stopped heading south
to wait for clearance to pass through a burn area along the highway. As we passed,
being escorted by firefighters, we passed trees still burning and Crews hard at work
trying to contain the blaze. We drove through thick smoke for at least a mile or
two. The burn area was perhaps 100 miles north of us when we reached Lake Laberge,
but we were happy to comply with the, "no fire" rule. You only have to see and
smell one of these fires to be enthusiastic for the rest of your life about carrying an
extra bucket of water to dowse a campfire. If you head south to Whitehorse and join
the Alaska Highway you will find a Petro-Canada service station. They had a dump
station and fresh water to refill your tanks with.
We have mentioned the
friends you make "on the trail". We have made lasting friendships and we
have stayed in touch with the people we have met along the way. We've had friends
visit and we have also visited them, even as far away as Germany. Most of these
friendships stay alive with holiday greetings and e-mail. Our own experience
demonstrates that RV'rs are friendly, generous, caring people who love to share
experiences and knowledge with others who appreciate the earth and its diverse natural
beauty.
At Whitehorse,
the capital of the Yukon, we stayed to watch an impressive parade with the RMCP.
Whitehorse has good parking areas off Main Street heading toward the mountains. We
saw the Riding Mounties and their beautiful horses and Tigger was able to come with us to
the festivities. There is a nice trail behind the parking lot where your pet can run
and play.
Going south from
Whitehorse we met friends at a campground called Pride of the Yukon. It had no
services and no hookups. You just drive down into a big field and pick a spot to
park for the night. We parked by the side of a pretty lake next to a fire ring some
previous campers had set up. We had the big hillside all to ourselves. It was
paradise for Tigger who could run loose and jump in the lake and swim a little bit.
When we are in remote areas we always fill the water tanks and make sure the holding tanks
are empty whenever we can stop for services. Some folks feel that you save gas by
running with an empty tank, but I feel you can save more by staying in primitive
campgrounds and being self-contained. Being prepared to dry camp allows you to take
advantage of beautiful wilderness areas and gives you the freedom to explore and go
anywhere. And this is what we had at The Pride of the Yukon. We made a fire
and cooked our supper and let Tigger run all around. He chased birds and rabbits
and, at times, we would toss him toys to fetch. We were the only people there until
our friends arrived to meet us.
Canadian Sunset
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