Amsterdam, Netherlands Travel Info, Recommendations, and Links

Netherlands

Select a state or country to view information on our favorite places, including must-see attractions, money-saving museum and subway passes, our favorite restaurants/bars/nightclubs, and more...

Europe:
England: London | France: Paris | Iceland: Reykjavík | Netherlands: Amsterdam | Scotland: Glasgow

EUROPE

Netherlands

Amsterdam - In May 2001, Mike was assigned to teach a course in Hoofdorp, in the Netherlands. We decided that this was a perfect opportunity to make a vacation out of a business trip, so Shay arranged for time off work and booked a flight to Amsterdam. But at the last minute, Mike's course was cancelled. Since we already had our flight tickets and hotel reservations, we decided to go ahead with the trip anyway. It turned out to be a great vacation! Because Mike did not have to teach during our stay, we were able to spend all of our time sightseeing and enjoying the city's restaurants and nightlife. Read on for our tips and recommendations...we hope they help you make the most of your time in this wonderful city!

Tourist Info:

	The Official Amsterdam Site - This web site is hosted by the Netherlands Board of Tourism, and it is a comprehensive source of information on the city. Visit the site for practical information, travel information, city highlights, "signposts", "quaint quarters", events, exhibitions, and news. You can also search for (and book) accommodations, activities and attractions, and more.
	Holland.com - This is the official web site of the Netherlands Board of Tourism. If you are planning to explore beyond Amsterdam, be sure to visit this site. It covers such general topics as travel information, practical information, accommodations, events, and exhibitions. It also provides detailed coverage of Amsterdam, The Hague, Delft, Rotterdam, Maastricht, Utrecht, and other cities.
	Online Guide Books - You can find a wealth of information on Amsterdam sights, accommodations, dining, entertainment, and more by visiting the incredibly useful Frommer's, Time Out, and Fodors online travel guides, as well as various Amsterdam-related web sites including the City of Amsterdam site (see top right section of home page for link to English site), Simply Amsterdam, and Amsterdam Channels.
	Airport - If you're traveling to Amsterdam from the US, you'll be flying into Schiphol Airport. Visit the airport's web site for helpful information about transport between Schiphol and Amsterdam (and other cities), airlines, airport services, tourist information, shops, restaurants, and more.
	Language - The official language of the Netherlands is Dutch. However, nearly everyone in Amsterdam speaks English. If you need help translating information on Dutch web sites or if you'd like to learn some of the local language before you go, you can access Dutch/English dictionaries online at YourDictionary.com.

Local Transportation:

GVB - Also known as the Amsterdam Municipal Transportation Company. The GVB operates the city's tram, bus, and metro services. The metro serves as transportation to outlying suburbs, so you'll primarily use trams and buses for transportation within the city. The trams are very easy to use; we took them everywhere. Each tram stop has the route numbers, destinations, and times clearly posted. To get on and off the tram, you'll need to push the large button next to the doors, as they do not open automatically. As for tickets, you have several options...all of which can be purchased at the GVB office on Stationsplein (outside Centraal Station). GVB tickets and passes include the strippenkaart (strip ticket), abonnement (season ticket - weekly, monthly, annual; requires a passport-sized photo), 24/48/72 uurskaart (24/48/72 hours ticket - replaces the dagkaart or "day ticket"), enkeltje/retourtje (single/return), nachtbuskaart (night bus ticket), and several others. We've used the dagkaart in the past, but the abonnement is suitable for longer stays. The strippenkaart can be a little confusing, and you have to remember to stamp it multiple times for every trip you take.

Attractions:

Museumjaarkaart - If you plan on visiting several museums during your visit to Holland, the Museumjaarkaart (Museum Year Card) is a great deal. It is valid for admission to over 400 museums throughout the Netherlands (including more than 25 in Amsterdam), and it is good for an entire year from the date of first use. You can purchase the pass at participating museums. You'll need a passport-sized photo, which is affixed to the front of the card, and you'll also need to provide your name (naam) and birth date (geboortedatum). While the Museujaarkaart web site is written entirely in Dutch, it's easy enough to locate basic information. Prices can be found on the information page. There are two prices listed (in euros); the lower price is for people under 25, while the higher price is for people ages 25 and up. For a list of participating museums, click on the "Welke musea doen mee?" link to run a search. Use the drop-down menu to select a province (for example, Noord-Holland for the region that includes Amsterdam). You can also select a category, or choose "Alle Categorieën" to view all museums that accept the pass. Once you've entered your criteria, click "Zoek" for a complete list of participating museums. The results will return a partial list; click "Volgende" (at the bottom) to view the next page. You can click on the museum names for additional details, including the address, a link to the museum's own web site, and more.

Note: The Amsterdam Tourist Board sells its own museum card called the Amsterdam Pass. You can purchase the pass for one, two, or three days. At present, the Amsterdam Pass costs more than a one-year Museumjaarkaart. What do you get for that price? Admission to 26 museums and attractions, a GVB transportation ticket, a free canal cruise, and discounts on restaurants and additional attractions. If you'll only be in town for a day or two, this pass is a better deal than purchasing a Museumjaarkaart and a GVB transportation ticket. However, if you'll be in town for more than a couple of days, you'll save money by purchasing a Museumjaarkaart and a GVB ticket for the duration of your stay.

Amsterdams Historisch Museum (Amsterdam Historical Museum) - Kalverstraat 92 - This museum tracks the history of Amsterdam...from its 13th century beginnings as a small fishing village and marketplace, to its 17th century evolution into the most powerful trading city in the world, to its current status as one of Europe's most free-thinking and culture-rich tourist destinations. There are several floors of fascinating displays and interactive exhibits housed in this stately building, which was once the city's orphanage. Visit the web site for museum information, including opening hours, admission fees, directions, an overview of the collection, and more. To get here, take tram 1, 2, or 5 to the Spui stop, or tram 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to the Rokin stop. Note: Free admission with the Museumjaarkaart or Amsterdam Pass.

Anne Frank Huis (Anne Frank House) - 263 Prinsengracht - This is the very house where Anne Frank wrote her famous diary. Anne, her parents, her sister Margot, and four others lived here in hiding for over two years...until they were tragically betrayed to the Nazis. Today, this site is a museum. You'll tour the front building, which once housed Otto Frank's business, and then make your way past the swinging bookcase that once concealed the entrance to the Annex. There, you'll be able to walk through the rooms of the hideaway itself. When you enter Anne's former room, you can't help but be touched...the photos she clipped from movie magazines still grace the walls. At the end of the tour, you'll view displays, videos, an interactive exhibit, and even Anne's original diary. Neither of the museum passes are valid here, but a visit to the Anne Frank House is well worth the price of admission. The web site is an excellent source of information, including hours and admission fees as well as details about the house, Anne's diary, Anne Frank herself, and more. To get here, take tram 13 or 17 to the nearby Westermarkt stop. Tip: There are long queues to get into this building throughout most of the day; your best bet is to go there first thing in the morning or later in the day (an hour or two before closing).

Canal Tours - While you're in Amsterdam, we highly recommend a canal boat tour. The canal boats are a great way to familiarize yourself with many of Amsterdam's major sights, and they give you an entirely different perspective of the city as you glide under its many old bridges. Different tour companies run canal boats from various points throughout the city. We chose Rederij Plas for our tour; they are conveniently located near the end of Damrak closest to Centraal Station. Rederij Plas tours are conducted in English, and they depart every 10 minutes between 9am-6pm, with extended hours in summer (additional departures every half hour between 6-9pm). In winter, the boats depart every half hour between 9:30am-5pm. The prices (listed near the bottom of the page under the heading "Toegangsprijzen") are quite reasonable. Click here for additional information and other tour operators.

De Zeven Landen (Houses of Seven Countries) - Roemer Visscherstraat 20-30a, between the Vondelpark and Leidseplein - On a quaint little side street near the Vondelpark, you'll find a surprising architectural curiosity: a series of seven side-by-side houses, each representing a different European country. Known in Dutch as "De Zeven Landen" and in English as "Houses of Seven Countries" - or simply "United Europe" - the houses along Roemer Visscherstraat 20-30A were built in 1894 by the architect Tjeerd Kuipers, who intended to focus on the history of European architecture. Number 20 is a romantic Gothic-style home representing Germany; 22 is a miniature château reminiscent of the Loire Valley in France; and 24 is a pink-and-white striped Moorish structure straight out of Spain's Alhambra. Number 26 is an elegant Italian palazzo that recalls the canals of Venice, while 28 resembles a Russian cathedral, complete with onion dome. Number 30 is a gabled Renaissance-style Dutch house that is similar to many other houses in the vicinity. Finally, number 30A is a Tudor-style English cottage. Although you can't tour these buildings, you can get some great photos from the outside. To get here, take tram 1 or 6 to the 1e Constantijn Huygens stop on Overtoom.

Heineken Experience - Stadhouderskade 78 - Beer drinkers throughout the world have long been familiar with Holland's most famous export beer: Heineken. Visitors to Amsterdam have the opportunity to tour the former Heineken brewery, which was founded in 1867. Beer was brewed on these premises for over 100 years, until 1988, when the Heineken brewery in Zoeterwoude took over production from the Amsterdam facility. In the years that followed, the brewery was turned into a reception center, where visitors could take guided tours and learn how the beer was brewed. The company later revamped the facility, and in May 2001, it was reopened as the "Heineken Experience". The Heineken Experience functions as a self-guided tour...there are numerous displays and interactive exhibits throughout the brewery, which visitors can explore at their own pace. Not only will you learn about the history of Heineken and how beer is brewed, but you'll have a lot of hands-on fun along the way. Experience what it's like to be a bottle whizzing along a bottling line; send an electronic photo-postcard to friends or family back home; and, of course, enjoy several complimentary glasses of Heineken beer. Visit the web site for hours, admission fees, and directions, FAQs, and more. To get here, take tram 16, 24, or 25 to the Heinekenplein stop (also called 1e Jacob van Campenstraat) on Ferdinand Bolstraat. (Alternately, you can take tram 6, 7, or 10 to the Weteringcircuit stop and walk from there.)

Kattenkabinet - Herengracht 497 - This is supposedly the only museum in the world featuring a permanent exhibition devoted entirely to cats. It is housed in a 17th-century canal mansion, and its collection includes paintings, statuettes, posters, and other items. Visit the web site for hours and admission, an overview of the collection, information on the building, news, and more. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to the Muntplein stop or tram 16, 24, or 25 to the Keizersgracht stop; the museum is a short walk from there.

Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace) - Dam Square - This imposing building was built in the 17th century as a city hall. Its Dutch Classicist architecture, massive size, and elegant interior were designed to impress visitors with Amsterdam's wealth and power. In 1808, King Louis Napoléon (brother of Napoléon Bonaparte) decided that the building would make a swell palace, so he converted it into his royal residence and decorated it with Empire-style furnishings, which are still in use today. The palace remains the official residence of the House of Orange; however, Queen Beatrix and her family prefer to live in a palace outside The Hague. They use the palace on the Dam for important state occasions, such as the wedding of Prince Willem-Alexander. Visit the Koninklijk Paleis web site for an overview, opening times, tours, admission fees, directions, and more. For additional information and photos, see the Royal Palace page on the Amsterdam Heritage site. To get to the palace, take any tram that stops at Dam.

Museum Amstelkring (Our Lord in the Attic) - Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40 - From the outside, this building looks like just another 17th-century canal house. But hidden behind its unassuming facade is the only remaining "attic church" in the city. From the mid-1500s to the mid-1700s, Amsterdam had a law prohibiting religious services other than those of the officially favored Dutch Reformed Church. Catholics had to practice their faith in secrecy, so a number of these hidden churches sprang up throughout the city. This lovely little church was in use for many years (in fact, it's still used today for organ recitals and services), and was later renovated in the 18th century. Today you can tour the church's chapel-like interior and upper galleries, and view its baroque altar, pipe organ, and religious artwork and artifacts. The lower floors of the house are also open to visitors, and display excellent examples of 17th-century architecture and furnishings. Visit the web site for hours, admission fees, location map, a virtual tour, exhibition info, and more. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 16, 24, or 25 to the Centraal Station stop; the museum is a short walk from there, in the city's infamous Red Light District. Note: Free admission with the Museumjaarkaart or Amsterdam Pass.

Museum Van Loon - Keizersgracht 672 - This beautiful double-sized canal house was built in 1671 for Ferdinand Bol, one of Rembrandt's pupils. In the 19th century, the property became the residence of the Van Loon family. Today, this elegant home is open to visitors. Be sure to read the informational cards that are available in the museum; they provide helpful background details on the building and its lovely rooms and furnishings. They also provide a history of the Van Loon family, whose portraits are displayed throughout the house. Don't miss the opportunity to stroll through the property's peaceful gardens and get a better look at the pretty coach house, which was designed to look like a Greek temple. Visit the web site for hours and admission, as well as information on the family, house, collections, and gardens. To get here, take tram 16, 24, or 25 to the Keizersgracht stop. Note: Free admission with the Museumjaarkaart or Amsterdam Pass.

Museum Willet-Holthuysen - Herengracht 605 - This stately merchant's mansion was built in the 1680s, and was subsequently acquired by the Willet-Holthuysen family in the 1850s. The last residents, Louisa Holthuysen and Abraham Willet, decorated their home in the Louis XVI style that was all the rage at the time. Today, visitors come to the museum to admire the opulent interior and furnishings, as well as Willet's extensive collections of objects d'art, glassware, silver, fine china, and paintings. The statues in the stairwell - depicting a story from Greek mythology - are particularly striking. Be sure to start off your visit by viewing the introductory video, and don't miss the opportunity to explore the gardens before you go. Visit the web site for museum information, including opening hours, admission fees, directions, guided tours, an overview of the museum and its collections, and more. To get here, take tram 4, 9, or 14to the Rembrandtplein stop. Note: Free admission with the Museumjaarkaart or Amsterdam Pass.

Narrowest Houses - Singel 7, Singel 166, Oude Hoogstraat 22, and Kloveniersburgwal 26 - There are quite a few private dwellings in Amsterdam that lay claim to the title of the narrowest house...each of them is barely wider than the front door. While you can't view the interior of these absurdly skinny houses, they're definitely worth a look from the outside. We particularly liked the house at Singel 166, with its cheerful red paint and pretty rose trellis surrounding the entryway.

Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) - Dam Square - The Nieuwe Kerk is located in the city center, next to the Royal Palace. Although the church dates from 1408, it is known as the "new" church because it was built years after the Oude Kerk (old church), which was erected in the early 1300s. The Nieuwe Kerk is well worth visiting both for its architectural interest as well as for the various exhibitions it hosts throughout the year. The coronation of heads of state take place here; the most recent was Queen Beatrix's inauguration in 1980. Visit the web site for information on the church building, current exhibitions, upcoming events, and more. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 16, 24, or 25 to the Dam stop. Note: Discounted admission may be available with the Museumjaarkaart.

Oude Kerk (Old Church) - Oudekerksplein 1 - Ironically situated in the heart of Amsterdam's Red Light district is the city's oldest church. The Oude Kerk was originally built in 1306 as a wooden chapel; it was subsequently renovated and enlarged between 1330 and 1571. The church features many tall windows that give the structure a sense of light and airiness. You'll see numerous gravestones along the floor, including one that marks the burial spot of Rembrandt's first wife, Saskia. Visit the web site for an overview and history of the church as well as opening hours and admission fees, directions, a slideshow, and more. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 16, 24, 25, or 26 to the Centraal Station or Dam stop; it's a few minutes' walk from either place. Note: Free admission with the Museumjaarkaart or Amsterdam Pass.

Poezenboot (Cat Boat) - moored opposite Singel 20 - This houseboat provides shelter to dozens of homeless kitties. Visitors are welcome to stop by and pet the friendly felines. Admission is free, but donations are encouraged...the donations and postcard sales help pay for cat food and sterilizations (to prevent more unwanted kittens from being born). To get here, take tram 1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to the Martelaarsgracht or Centraal Station stop; the boat is a few minutes' walk from there.

Rembrandthuis (Rembrandt House Museum) - Jodenbreestraat 4 - This museum provides a fascinating glimpse into the life of one of the greatest Dutch masters. The museum covers two buildings, the first being the house where Rembrandt van Rijn lived and worked from 1639 to 1658; it has been carefully restored to appear as it did in Rembrandt's time. The second building is the new museum wing, which houses the permanent collection of Rembrandt's etchings, a variety of temporary exhibitions, and the Rembrandt Information Centre. Visit the web site for hours, admission fees, directions, and more. You can even take a virtual tour of the house online, including the entrance hall, anteroom, press room, chamber/salon, large studio, and art cabinet. Truly a "must-see" attraction. To get here, take tram 9 or 14 to the Waterlooplein or MR Visserplein stop. Note: Free admission with the Museumjaarkaart or Amsterdam Pass.

Rijksmuseum - Stadhouderskade 42 - The Rijksmsueum Amsterdam - which bills itself as "the treasure-house of the Netherlands" - boasts the largest collection of art and history in the country. The museum features many paintings and drawings by internationally renowned artists, including over 30 works by Rembrandt and four by Vermeer. Other great artists represented here include van Gogh, Rubens, Ferdinand Bol, Albrecht Dürer, Anthony van Dyck, Frans Hals, Jacob de Wit, and even American photographer Man Ray. The major highlight of the museum is Rembrandt's famous painting The Night Watch. But the museum houses more than just paintings...there are superb collections of silver, delftware, doll’s houses, prints, drawings, Asiatic art, and a presentation on Dutch history. Visit the web site for opening times, admission fees, directions, museum services, floor plan, history of the museum, exhibitions, and more. To get here, take tram 2 or 5 to Hobbemastraat, or take tram 6, 7, or 10 to the Spiegelgracht stop. Note: Free admission with the Museumjaarkaart or Amsterdam Pass.

Stedelijk Museum of Modern Art - Paulus Potterstraat 13* - The Stedelijk is Amsterdam's premier modern art museum. Its impressive collections cover the late 19th century to the present and include works by Cézanne, Monet, Matisse, Kandinsky, Chagall, Mondrian, Picasso, de Kooning, Lichtenstein, Jeff Koons, and many others. *Update: The Stedelijk's facility at Paulus Potterstraat 13 is currently closed for refurbishment. During the refurbishment, the museum's collections will be on display at Oosterdokskade 3-5. The temporary site is expected to open in May 2004, and the museum's works will be on display there through 2006. Note: Free admission with the Museumjaarkaart or Amsterdam Pass.

Van Gogh Museum - Paulus Potterstraat 7 - Vicent van Gogh was one of Holland's most prolific painters, and he remains one of the country's most well-known and best-loved artists. So, it should be no surprise that Amsterdam has an entire museum devoted to the works of van Gogh. It is housed in a modern building (circa 1973) that is nestled between the Stedelijk and Rijksmuseum. The museum possesses the world's largest collection of works by Vincent van Gogh, including some 200 paintings, 500 drawings, and 700 letters, as well as the artist's own collection of Japanese prints. The museum also hosts a large collection of works by other 19th-century artists. Among them are contemporaries and friends of Van Gogh's - such as Gauguin, Seurat, and Toulouse-Lautrec - as well as a number of older artists whom he admired, including Léon Lhermitte, Jean-François Millet, and Ary Scheffer. Visit the web site for hours, admission fees, and directions as well as the history of the collection, news, exhibitions, van Gogh's life and times, a virtual tour, and more. To get here, take tram 2 or 5 to the Paulus Potterstraat stop, or tram 3, 12, or 16 to the Museumplein stop. Note: Free admission with the Museumjaarkaart or Amsterdam Pass.

Westerkerk - Prinsengracht 279 - Opened in 1631, this beautiful Dutch Renaissance structure is the oldest and largest Protestant church in the Netherlands. In 1669 the great painter Rembrandt van Rijn was buried here in a rental grave. (His exact burial spot is not known, but a memorial plaque was placed in the north aisle, near the final resting place of Rembrandt's son Titus.) In 1966, Netherlands' Queen Beatrix and Prince Claus were married here. While the church in most impressive in its own right, the real draw here is the tower, which is open to visitors (for a fee). It's a steep climb at times (up ladder-like steps), but the view from the top is more than worth it. The church hosts frequent organ recitals, and be sure to listen for its heavenly carillon music if you are in the area. Visit the web site for additional visitor information. To get here, take tram 13, 14, or 17 to the Westermarkt stop.

A Walk on the Wild Side - In addition to the major sights listed above, you may want to set aside some time to visit some of Amsterdam's more offbeat attractions:

	Erotic Museum - Oudezijds Achterburgwal 54 - This museum attempts to raise erotica to an art form, with five floors of photos, images, displays, and an extensive collection of sex toys. A few highlights among the tawdry exhibits are original photos of the infamous pin-up girl Bettie Page and erotic drawings sketched by none other than John Lennon. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 16, 24, or 25 to the Centraal Station or Dam stop; the museum is a few minutes' walk from either stop.
	Hash Marihuana Hemp Museum - Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 - It should come as no surprise that Amsterdam has a museum devoted to the ubiquitous cannabis. Exhibits include smugglers' devices, instructions on how to roll a joint, and a window facing the professional grow room next door. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to the Dam stop; the museum is a short walk from there.
	Red Light District - area between Centraal Station, the Dam, and Nieuwmarkt; roughly bounded by Warmoesstraat, Gelderskade, and Damstraat/Oude Doelenstraat - It's seedy, it's sleazy, it's sex on parade. Many tourists stop by here to ogle the "sights"...even those who have no intention of purchasing any "services". Scantily-clad (and un-clad) prostitutes brazenly beckon from doorsteps and windows. (Amsterdam's ladies of the Red Light district make New York City streetwalkers look downright chaste by comparison.) By day, you're likely to glimpse some of these women as you tour popular local attractions like the Museum Amstelkring and Oude Kerk. The area is quite safe during the daytime, if a bit embarrassing for families with children. But it takes on a more sinister vibe after dark, when the prostitutes are joined by drug dealers, muggers, and other lowlifes. If you go at night, it's best if you go as a large group. Leave your valuables at your hotel, and keep your wits about you. The Amsterdam XXX/Walletjes site offers a FAQs page (scroll halfway down page for link to FAQs) and message board to address any questions you might have.
	Venustempel (Amsterdam Sex Museum) - Damrak 18 - Tacky, sleazy, and mostly quite humorous, this "museum" is devoted to sex in its many forms: images, photos, videos, sculptures, apparatus, and more. You'll find everything from ancient art to modern porn. *Warning:* Some of the exhibits in this museum may offend even the most open-minded people. This is definitely not a place to bring children. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to the Dam stop; the museum is a short walk down Damrak toward Centraal Station.

Restaurants:

	Burger’s Patio - 2e Tuindwarsstraat 12 - A wonderful Italian restaurant in the charming Jordaan neighborhood. Pleasant atmosphere, nice décor, and friendly wait staff. Our waiter was very helpful in recommending vegetarian options for Shay. The food went way beyond basic pasta, and it was absolutely delicious. Highly recommended! See Eat Drink Etc., Amsterdam Hotspots, and Iens Independent Index for reviews. Open 6pm-1am (kitchen closes at 11pm). To get here, take tram 3 or 10 to the Marnixplein stop.
	De Bolhoed - Prinsengracht 60 - Probably the most famous vegetarian restaurant in Amsterdam, and with good reason. The restaurant offers creative and tasty vegetarian food, as well as a variety of tempting desserts, in bright and cozy surroundings. Outdoor seating is available when the weather is good. Definitely worth a visit, whether or not you're vegetarian. See Eat Drink Etc., Hip Guide to Amsterdam, VegDining, Vegan Traveller, Shark, Iens Independent Index, and Frommer's for additional reviews. Open Sunday through Friday noon-10pm, and on Saturday from 11am-11pm. To get here, take tram 13, 14, or 17 to the Westermarkt stop; it's a short walk from there (past the Anne Frank House, on the opposite side of the canal).
	De Palmboom - Rusland 23 - This restaurant is located in the Radisson SAS Hotel, where we stayed during our 2001 trip to Amsterdam. The part of the building that houses the restaurant was built in 1767, and it was originally a grocer's shop. De Palmboom has a casual atmosphere, and its many tall windows give it a light and airy feel. They serve an excellent breakfast buffet; we dined here every morning before setting out to take in the sights. We also enjoyed a couple of dinners here, and found them to be quite reasonably priced (for a hotel restaurant). The restaurant features "a variety of international classics served with a Dutch twist". Their three-course menu (set-price meal) was an excellent value, starting around 25 Euros. Shay highly recommends the butterfish...it truly melts in your mouth! Also, De Palmboom runs a great dinner special (at least they did when we were there)...if you dine early (sorry, we don't recall the exact hours), you get free unlimited Heineken with your meal! Even if you're not staying at this hotel, it's worth stopping at De Palmboom for a meal. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to the Dam, Spui, or Muntplein stop; the hotel is a short walk from any of those stops.
	De Vliegende Schotel - Nieuwe Leliestraat 162 - The name means "The Flying Saucer"...a clever name for a nice little vegetarian restaurant with an imaginative menu. The cafe is nothing fancy, but it's very popular...there was a fairly long queue when we were there. Very tasty food, and large portions. Visit the web site for news, images, menu, and more. See Eat Drink Etc, Iens Independent Index, Vegan Traveller, Shark, and Happy Cow for reviews. Open daily from 4-10:45pm. To get here, take tram 10 to the Bloemgracht stop on Marnix; it's a short walk from there. Alternately, take tram 13, 14, or 17 to the Rozengracht/Marnix or Westermarkt stop; it's a slightly longer walk from either of those stops.
	De Waaghals - Frans Halsstraat 29 - A popular vegetarian restaurant that we had hoped to try, but didn't get around to on our last trip. It's definitely on our "must-try" list for our next visit! Open Tuesday through Sunday from 5-9:30pm (closed on Mondays). Visit the web site for information and menu. See Eat Drink Etc., Amsterdam Channels, and WorldSurface for reviews. To get here, take tram 6, 7, or 10 to the 1e Jacob van Campenstraat stop on Ferdinand Bolstraat; it's just a block or two from there.
	Esoterica - Overtoom 409 - A small vegetarian cafe, with a bit of a hippie/new age vibe. Eat inside or out, and feel free to browse through the books on bookshelf while you wait for your meal to be served. The service was a bit slow when we went, but it was understandable given that there was only one woman working there and she prepared each item by hand. Esoterica offers an incredible vegetarian rijsttafel, which is an Indonesian specialty comprised of many small servings of a variety of different food items; every one of them was delicious, and well worth the wait. Open Wednesday through Sunday from 2-10pm (closed on Mondays and Tuesdays). See Let's Go: Amsterdam (scroll down) and Iens Independent Index for review. To get here, take tram 1 or 6 to the Rhijnvis Feith stop, then walk back down Overtoom a short distance.
	Green Planet - Spuistraat 122 - A new vegetarian restaurant that we have not yet tried; but based on the web site and reviews, we definitely plan to check it out the next time we're in Amsterdam! Open Monday through Saturday from 11am-4pm for lunch and 6-10:30pm for dinner (closed on Sundays). Visit the web site for information, menus (food, coffee and tea, other beverages), directions, QuickTime tour, and more. See Vegan Traveller, Happy Cow, and Hip Guide to Amsterdam for reviews. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 14, 16, 20, 24, or 25 to the Dam stop; the restaurant is a short walk from there. (Walk down the Damrak or Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal toward Centraal Station, turn left of Oude Leliestraat, then right on Spuistraat.)
	Pancake Bakery - Prinsengracht 191 - Located in the basement of a former 17th century warehouse on one of Amsterdam's main canals, the Pancake Bakery offers over 70 varieties of its namesake dish and claims to serve "the best pancakes in town". The savory pancakes make a filling dinner, while the sweet pancakes make a delectable dessert. Visit the web site for location, history, menu (dinner, drinks, and desserts), photo gallery, and more. Open daily from noon-9:30pm. See Frommer's, IgoUgo, and Cityvox for reviews. To get here, take tram 13, 14, or 17 to the Westermarkt stop; it's a short walk (past the Anne Frank House) from there.
	Terra Nostra - Vijzelstraat 97 - This is a lovely little Italian restaurant we found quite by accident, while sightseeing in the area. We had the restaurant nearly all to ourselves when we stopped in for lunch. The prices were very reasonable, and the pizza was delicious! Open from noon-11pm. To get here, take tram 16, 24, or 25 to the Keizersgracht stop on Vijzelstraat. *Note:* We really haven't been able to find much info on this restaurant online, so we're not sure if it's still in business.
	Wagamama - Max Euweplein 10 - A very popular noodle bar and restaurant. (Run by the same company as the many London Wagamama locations.) You'll be seated side-by-side with other diners at long tables, and the wait staff will take your orders on hand-held computers. The restaurant has a trendy feel, but the food is fresh and healthy, and very delicious. There is plenty to choose from, for meat-lovers and vegetarians alike. We suggest the edamame as an appetizer; for the main course, Mike recommends the chicken ramen, while Shay loves the yasai katsu curry. Visit the web site for the menus and other information. (You can check the Amsterdam menu [PDF] for local pricing.) See Eat Drink Etc., Amsterdam Hotspots, and UrbanGuide for reviews. To get here, take tram 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, or 10 to the Leidseplein stop; it's just a short walk from there.

Clubs & Bars:

If you're looking for some cool places to hang out in Amsterdam, check out Shark - an online guide that includes news, bar/club/coffeeshop/restaurant listings, and more. For additional bar and club listings, try Amsterdam Hotspots, Frommer's, Time Out, and Fodors.

Goth Clubs - According to the International Goth Club Listing, the Netherlands is home to some half-dozen goth clubs. The only one listed for Amsterdam is The Cave of Satyr (see below). However, check the club listing before you go to Amsterdam, as club entries are added (and removed) on a regular basis.

The Cave of Satyr - Haarlemmerstraat 118, Amsterdam - When we visited this cool little club during our May 2001 trip to Amsterdam, little did we know that it would be gone by year-end. Apparently, the club's former venue - Cafe/Restaurant Du Lac - was sold to new owners, who were planning to convert it to a tapas bar. But in March 2003, the club reopened in its original location...and it looks as if it is still going strong today. Visit the club's web site for news, location, flyer, photo gallery, and more. To get here, take tram 1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to the Centraal Station stop; the club is just a few minutes' walk from there.

Korsakoff - Lijnbaansgracht 161 - We didn't get a chance to visit this club during our last visit to Amsterdam, but we've heard good things about it. It's been described as a "grunge club", and the music is a mix of alternative, punk, hip-hop, metal, and the like. Bonus: There is no cover charge here! The club is open Monday through Thursday and on Sunday from 10pm-3am, and Friday and Saturday from 10pm-4am. See Eat Drink Etc., Amsterdam Hotspots, and Shark for info and reviews. To get here, take tram 10 or 17 to the Elandsgracht stop on Marnixstraat. (Click here for map.)

Café Legendz - Kinkerstraat 45, Amsterdam - Café Legendz bills itself as "an alternative bar"; music ranges from indie/alternative to 80s new wave to goth. The bar has a friendly atmosphere, and diversions include a pool table, dartboard, and board games. Legendz hosts an 80s/new wave night on Fridays, as well as a goth/industrial night the last Saturday of the month. Visit the web site for description and hours, location, news, photo gallery, links, and more. Open from Monday through Thursday from 8am-1am; Fridays from 8am-3am; and Saturdays from 11am-3am (closed on Sundays). To get here, take tram 7 or 17 to the Elandsgracht or Bilderdijk stop on Kinkerstraat. Note: This bar also has a second location - Cafe Legendz "de Pijp" - at Nicolaas Berchemstraat 4. The "de Pijp" location serves light meals in addition to cocktails, and is open Monday through Thursday from 7:30am-12am; Friday and Saturday from 7:30am-2am; and Sunday from 12-8pm. Visit the web site for location, photo gallery, and more. To get here, take tram 4 to Stadhouderskade or tram 7 or 10 to Frederiksplein; the bar is located adjacent to the Albert Cuyp Market.

Pastorie Bar - Rusland 17 - This charming little bar is housed in a former 18th century vicarage; the old building was actually incorporated into the modern Radisson hotel and is accessible from the hotel lobby. The well-stocked bar offers a variety of beer and drinks, as well as sandwiches and other snacks. The bartenders are friendly, the atmosphere is relaxed, and the sofas (and other seating) are very comfortable. A nice way to relax after a long day of sightseeing. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to the Dam, Spui, or Muntplein stop; the hotel is a short walk from any of those stops.

Café Rembrandt - Schiphol Airport - This cozy little bar has an "old world" look and feel, despite its location in a modern airport. A nice place to enjoy a pint if you've checked in early for your return flight or if you're staying at one of the nearby airport hotels. The bar offers a wide selection of drinks; Shay had a pint of cider, while Mike enjoyed a Vos - Anno 1857 beer. Open daily from 9am-12:30am.

The Tara - Rokin 85-89 (rear entrance at Nes 101) - Wonderful, spacious Irish bar in downtown Amsterdam. We found this place while wandering down Nes street looking for Sisters vegetarian restaurant (which appears to be no more), so we had lunch and a couple of drinks here instead. Good food and great atmosphere; a fire was burning in the large stone fireplace while we sat in our cushioned seats and enjoyed our meal. Shay was pleased to find her favorite cider - Strongbow - on tap, while Mike tried Oranjeboom, a Dutch beer. Visit the web site for information, directions, map, menu, music, news, and more. The kitchen is open daily from 11am-9pm, while the bars stay open until 1am (3am on weekends). See Amsterdam Hotspots, Time Out, and Eat Drink Etc., for reviews. To get here, take tram 4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to the Spui or Dam stop; the bar is a short walk down Rokin from either stop.

The Bulldog - Leidseplein 15-17 - The Bulldog is an Amsterdam institution, serving alcoholic beverages and cannabis to a mostly-tourist crowd. The Bulldog Palace (café/bar) and Coffeeshop on the Leidseplain - ironically housed in a former police station - are collectively one of the most popular hangouts in the city. (For those of you not familiar with Amsterdam's "coffeeshops", they serve more than just coffee...they are purveyors of cannabis. These coffeeshops can legally sell small amounts of marijuana or hash for personal consumption; however, they cannot openly advertise their products or prices. To spot a cannabis-selling coffeeshop, look for lots of leafy green plants in the window; and if you intend to buy the stuff, you have to specifically ask for their cannabis menu. Also, you cannot purchase cannabis from the same bar as alcohol; so if you're at a café/coffeeshop that serves both - like The Bulldog - make sure you go to the correct bar.) The Bulldog Palace (upstairs) is a "lively grand cafe with two bars, a state of the art audio/visual system, Internet lounge, and DJs"; while the Coffeeshop (downstairs) offers a wide assortment of cannabis...you can purchase it loose or in pre-rolled joints. When the weather is nice, the patio out front is a great place to drink, smoke, and people-watch. A word of advice...if you (like us) do not normally smoke pot but just want to experience it in a city where it's legal, take it easy and just smoke a little bit at a time. The weed is fresh and very potent here. Shay made the mistake of smoking half a joint by herself, and felt dizzy, lightheaded, and somewhat nauseous for several hours afterward. Also, be careful not to mix alcohol and marijuana, or you're quite likely to pass out in public. (No, that never happened to us...but we saw many others conked out from their excesses!) To get here, take tram 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, or 10 to the Leidseplein stop. Note: The Bulldog has additional "coffeeshop" locations at Oudezijds Voorburgwal 90, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 132, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 218, Singel 12, and Spuistraat 7, and additional café locations at Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 49, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 132, and Singel 12. The latest Bulldog offerings are a hostel/budget hotel and fully-furnished luxury apartments.

Accommodations:

Amsterdam seems to have an endless array of hotels...everything from dirt-cheap youth hostels to pricey luxury hotels. Shay has stayed both in a youth hostel (the NHJC Stadsdoelen hostel) and a budget hotel (Hotel Bema). Both were fine at the time (years ago when Shay was backpacking through Europe on a very tight budget), but nothing worth raving about here. We booked rooms at the Radisson SAS Hotel and Radisson SAS Hotel Amsterdam Airport for our last trip (see below); both hotels were excellent. For other hotel options, try the search and booking engines on