France Travel Info, Recommendations, and Links

France

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Paris - Shay first visited Paris in 1989, while backpacking through Europe prior to her semester abroad in Glasgow. Her travel companions wanted to move on after a couple of nights...barely enough time to scratch the surface of this magnificent city! So Shay returned again during her second tour of Europe in 1992, and once again during a whirlwind tour of European capitals in 1996. Finally, in November 2000, Shay and Mike spent a full 10 days in "The City of Lights"...it was Mike's first visit to France, and we hit all the major tourist attractions. But alas, it rained every single day of our trip (take our advice: don't ever schedule a trip to Paris in late November!), so Mike was not able to truly experience all of the city's outdoor charms. Ah well; that just means that another trip is in order one of these days...this time, we'll go in spring or early fall!

Tourist Info:

	Paris Office of Tourism - This web site is an excellent resource for planning your trip to Paris. You'll find detailed information on accommodations, museums and monuments, cafés and restaurants, shopping, transportation, practical information, and more. For additional local information, see The Paris Pages.
	French Government Tourist Office - Whether or not your visit will extend beyond Paris, be sure to visit this web site for lots of useful information and brochures.
	Online Guide Books - You can find a wealth of information on Paris sights, accommodations, dining, entertainment, and more by visiting the incredibly useful (and free!) Frommer's, Time Out, and Fodors online travel guides, as well as various Paris-related web sites including The Paris Pages, Paris Tourisme, Paris Digest, BonjourParis, 123Paris, and ParisFranceGuide.
	Airports - If you're traveling to Paris from the US, you'll either be flying into Roissy-Charles de Gaulle or Orly. (Both sites are managed by ADP: Aéroports de Paris.) Click on the links to access detailed information about the airports, the airlines that fly into them, airport services, shops and restaurants located within the terminals, transportation between the airports and the city, and more.
	Language - The official language of France is - naturally - French. Some Parisians speak English, but it certainly helps if you (or a travel partner) have some basic knowledge of French. For a crash course in français, log on to Fodors Living Language. You can choose from such topics as "useful expressions", "at the airport", "finding your way", "accommodations", "dining out", and more. Each section provides a variety of useful phrases; they are listed in English alongside the French equivalent (linked to an audio clip), and the correct pronunciation is also spelled out phoenetically. Another great tool is BabelFish on AltaVista. BabelFish allows you to translate up to 150 words from French to English (or English to French), and you can even translate an entire web page simply by pasting in the URL. You can also translate a single word using WordReference, or access French/English dictionaries online at YourDictionary.com.

Local Transportation:

RATP - Paris's RATP network consists of the Métro (subway), RER (trains), and Bus Paris (buses). It's very easy to get around Paris via public transportation. The RATP site has a journey-planner tool that allows you plot routes between various destinations in advance, and many Métro stations offer a similar tool via a large, light-up map. You can view route maps on the web site in PDF or GIF format: Métro (PDF or HTML), RER (PDF or HTML), or Bus (PDF or HTML). As for tickets, you have several options:

	You can purchase single-ride tickets, or save money on multiple trips by purchasing a "carnet" of 10 tickets. Click here for fares.
	RATP also offers a Paris Visite card that allows visitors unlimited transportation across a select number of zones for 1, 2, 3, or 5 days. It also offers some discounts on various Parisian attractions. Click here (then scroll down a bit) for fares.
	But here's a tip...the Carte Orange is by far your best deal; it offers unlimited travel across a select number of zones for a week (Monday through Sunday) or a month at extremely reasonable prices. You'll notice that the Carte Orange web pages appear in French; this is because the pass is intended for French citizens. However, no proof of citizenship is required to purchase the Carte Orange...as long as you (or a travel partner) can speak passable French, you should be able to walk up to the ticket counter at any Métro station and purchase one without a problem. You will need a passport-sized photo, so be sure to bring one with you. The photo will be affixed to your Carte Orange, which serves as an ID card. The Carte Orange itself is technically free; what you pay for is the weekly (or monthly) travel ticket. You'll receive a plastic holder for the pass and ticket, and you will need to insert the ticket into the turnstile each time you enter or exit a Métro station. When you first purchase the Carte Orange, be sure to specify whether you want a one-week ticket ("coupon hebdo") or one-month ticket ("coupon mensuel"), as well as the number of zones. (If you're staying in central Paris, zones 1-2 should be adequate for your day-to-day sightseeing; you can purchase separate RER tickets if you venture out to Versailles [zone 4] or EuroDisney [zone 5] for the day.)

Attractions:

Carte Musées-Monuments (Paris Museum Pass) - This pass is an excellent value if you plan to do a lot of sightseeing; we highly recommend it. You can purchase a single- or multi-day pass, valid for either one, three, or five consecutive days. Your pass allows unlimited, priority admission (yes, you get to bypass the lines!) to 70 museums and monuments in and around Paris. We used our 5-day passes to visit the Arc de Triomphe, Centre Pompidou/Modern Art Museum, Conciergerie, Louvre, Musée d'Orsay, Napoléon's Tomb/Les Invalides, Notre-Dame towers, Panthéon, Picasso Museum, and Sainte-Chapelle, as well as Château Versailles and the Grand and Petit Trianon. You can purchase the pass at any of the participating attractions, major Métro stations, and the Paris Tourist Bureau. Visit the Carte Musées-Monuments web site for more information.

Arc de Triomphe - Place Charles de Gaulle-Étoile, 8th arrondissement - The Arc de Triomphe holds a commanding position at the end of the Champs-Elysées, serving as the focal point of the Étoile (so named because 12 streets radiate outward from this spot like a star). Over 160 feet high, this is the largest triumphal arch in the world. It was commissioned by Napoléon in 1806 to commemorate the victories of his Grand Armée, and it still serves as a memorial to France's war heroes today...at the base of the arch, the flame marking the tomb of the Unknown Soldier burns continuously. When you approach the arch, do not attempt to dash across the busy traffic circle; instead, look for the stairs leading to the underground passageway. The arch is quite a sight to behold from street level, but even more impressive is the view from the observation deck on top. You can take the elevator, or get some exercise by tackling the stairs. On your way up, be sure to check out the exhibition area for some background on this famous monument. Visit the web site for detailed information, including directions, hours, admission fees (the carte musées-monuments includes admission to this site), overview, history, virtual tour, and more. To access information on several other major Parisian sights - or to view the slick Flash version of this web site - log on to the Centre des Monuments Nationaux site. Nearest Métro station is Charles de Gaulle-Étoile.

Centre Georges Pompidou: Musée National d'Art Moderne - Place Georges-Pompidou, 4th arrondissement - If you enjoy modern and contemporary art, you won't want to miss this museum. As you approach the Centre Pompidou, you'll be struck by its curious "inside-out" architecture, with brightly-colored ducts and pipes (green for water, red for heat, blue for air, yellow for electricity) enveloping the glass-walled building. Upon entering the building, head to the fourth floor for the modern art museum. As you stroll through the galleries, you'll note the interior has a light and airy feel...allowing each painting and sculpture to make its own bold statement. A number of our favorite artists are represented here, including Dalí, Magritte, Ernst, Matisse, and Chagall. You can take a museum tour online. Visit the web site for more information, including location and map, hours (closed on Tuesdays), admission fees (the carte musées-monuments includes admission to this site), and more. For additional information, check out Centre Georges Pompidou on The Paris Pages. Nearest Métro stations are Rambuteau and Hôtel de Ville.

Conciergerie - 1 quai de l'Horloge - This building once served as a royal palace, but later gained notoriety during the Revolution for its role as a prison...the last stop for many who would die on the guillotine. Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were brought here to await their trials, and you can see a recreation of the cell where the queen spent her last days. You can easily view the Conciergerie within the space of an hour; we recommend you visit it on the same day as the Ile de la Cité's other leading attractions: Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle. Visit the web site for detailed information, including directions, hours, admission fees (the carte musées-monuments includes admission to this site), overview, history, virtual tour, and more. To access information on several other major sights - or to view the slick Flash version of this web site - log on to the Centre des Monuments Nationaux site. Nearest Métro stations are Cité, Châtelet, and St.-Michel.

Eiffel Tower - Champ de Mars, 7th arrondissement - The ubiquitous symbol of Paris, this wrought-iron structure seems to loom in the background wherever you go. The tower was created by Gustave Eiffel for the 1889 Universal Exhibition, and was scheduled to be demolished in the 1890s...but it was saved from destruction because its great height made it the perfect spot to place a radio antenna. Today, millions of visitors each year queue up to purchase tickets to the observation deck at the top of the tower. If you go on a clear day, you can see for miles. However, we recommend you take the time to explore the viewing platforms on the first and second floors...you'll get some really good photos of the surrounding landmarks from these lower levels. By the time you reach the top floor, all of the buildings are just specks on an endless landscape. (It's an exhilarating feeling to be up that high, but you won't be able to make out much in photos taken from that level.) The Paris Museum Card is not valid here, but the experience (especially for a first-time visitor) is worth the admission price. Visit the web site for detailed information, including a location map, hours, admission fees, facts & figures, virtual tour, and more. Nearest Métro stations are Trocadéro, École Militaire, and Bir-Hakeim. Tip: For the best photo ops, take the Métro to Trocadéro...you'll get a stunning, unobstructed view of the tower with a fountain pool in the foreground.

Espace Salvador Dalí - 11, rue Poulbot, Montmartre - In the heart of Montmartre, around the corner from the Place du Tertre, the surrealist world of Salvador Dalí is displayed through a unique collection of sculptures, lithographs, and illustrations. Here you will see Dalí's Art of Love, Inferno, Purgatory, Paradise, Original Artwork, Sculpture, Biblia Sacra, Decameron, and Tristan and Iseult. Additional information can be found on the Paris.org web site. Nearest Métro station is Abbesses.

Louvre - 34-36 quai du Louvre, 1st arrondissement - The Musée du Louvre is easily the most famous museum in the world, and with good reason. This grande dame of the international art world began its life as a fortress, and was later turned into a royal palace. The leaders of the Revolution declared that the king's art collections should be accessible to the public, and the Louvre eventually assumed its current role as museum. With over 30,000 pieces of art on display, it's virtually impossible to see all of the Louvre's treasures in a day. Instead, plan your visit in advance, and figure out which galleries and masterpieces you'd most like to see. The museum's collections include Oriental Antiquities and Islamic Art; Egyptian Antiquities; Greek, Etruscan, and Roman Antiquities; Objets d'Art; Sculpture; Paintings; Prints and Drawings; and Medieval Louvre; as well as a collection of Arts of Africa, Asia, Oceania, and the Americas on loan from the Musée du Quai Branly. A few of the "must-see" works here include La Gioconda (Mona Lisa), Venus de Milo, Winged Victory of Samothrace, Michelangelo's Slaves, David's Oath of the Horatii and Consecration of Napoléon, Géricault's Raft of the Medusa, Veronese's Wedding Feast at Cana, and the series of paintings Rubens created for Marie de Médici. Visit the web site for detailed information, including directions, hours (closed on Tuesdays), admission fees (the carte musées-monuments includes admission to this site), exhibitions, history, virtual tour, and more. Nearest Métro station is Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre. Tip: If you've purchased a carte musées-monuments, you can avoid the hordes of tourists queued up at the glass pyramid entrance...just go straight to the Passage Richelieu (between the Place du Palais-Royal and the Cour Napoléon) for immediate entry.

Musée d'Orsay - 1 rue de Bellechasse, 7th arrondissement - This gem of an art museum should be near the top of your "must-see" list of Parisian attractions. The d'Orsay is housed in a belle époque train station (formerly the Gare d'Orsay), and its collections feature some of the most important Impressionist and Postimpressionist works in the world. Highlights include works by Cézanne, Degas, Gauguin, Manet, Millet, Monet, Renoir, Rodin, Seurat, Van Gogh, and others. While the museum hosts several floors of galleries, it is much smaller in size and more focused in scope than the Louvre...if you have a few hours to devote to it, you should be able to view all of the d'Orsay's collections in an afternoon. Visit the web site for additional details, including directions, hours, (closed on Mondays), admission fees (the carte musées-monuments includes admission to this site), exhibitions, guided tours, and more. Nearest Métro station is Solférino.

Musée Picasso - Hôtel Salé, 5 rue de Thorigny - The French government acquired much of this wonderful collection after Picasso's death in 1973, in lieu of several million dollars' worth of inheritance taxes. The museum is housed in a seventeenth-century mansion in the Marais district. The Hôtel Salé was originally built in 1656 as a residence; it changed ownership a number of times over the years and was eventually leased to the state in 1975. The building was beautifully restored and finally opened as the Picasso Museum in 1985. Today, it houses 203 paintings, 158 sculptures, 16 collages, 19 bas-reliefs, 88 ceramics, and over 3,000 drawings, engravings, and manuscripts. In addition to Picasso's own artwork, the museum contains the artist's personal collections of primitive Nimba masks from New Guinea, Grebo masks, Iberian bronzes, sketches by de Chirico and Degas, and paintings by Corot, Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse, and others. The web site (which is written entirely in French) includes visitor information such as hours, location, admission, and a map; for information in English, see Paris Tourisme, Paris Digest, and The Paris Pages. The museum is open from 9:30am-5:30pm Wednesday through Monday (closed on Tuesdays); from April through September, it remains open until 6pm. The carte musées-monuments includes admission to this museum. Nearest Métro stations are St-Paul, St-Sébastien, and Chemin Vert.

Napoléon's Tomb/Hôtel des Invalides - 129, rue de Grenelle, 7th arrondissement - The massive baroque complex known as Hôtel National des Invalides was designed in the 1670s; Louis XIV ordered this structure to be built to house soldiers that were crippled while fighting his wars. Today, the Institution Nationale des Invalides still provides housing and medical care for a few dozen retired servicemen; however, much of Les Invalides has been converted to museums. Most visitors come here to see L'Église du Dôme, which houses Napoléon's Tomb. The late emperor's remains were placed within six coffins - one inside the other - and sealed within a massive tomb, which lies beneath the dome of this former royal church. Once you've viewed Napoléon's tomb, be sure to take some time to visit the other attractions at this site. Les Invalides happens to house one of the world's greatest military museums - Musée de l'Armée - which houses vast collections of arms and armor, as well as artillery, flags, historic figurines, iconography, Napoléon's personal effects, and more. Other museums at Les Invalides include the Musée des Plans-Reliefs, which contains relief maps of various French towns and regions, and the Musée de l'Ordre de la Libération, where you'll see exhibits relating to the French Resistance and concentration camps as well as a Room of Honor displaying de Gaulle's medals, insignia, uniform, and manuscripts. Finally, don't miss L'Église Saint-Louis, which was opened in 1679 as a soldiers' church and which still holds commemorative masses to this day. The church also displays flags and trophies captured in war, and its Governors' Vault houses the remains of Les Invalides governors, French marshals, and other military leaders. Visit the web site (currently written entirely in French) for additional details, including location map, hours, admission fees, and more. If you've purchased a carte musées-monuments, it will cover admission to all of the attractions at Les Invalides. Nearest Métro stations are Invalides, Latour-Maubourg, and Varenne.

Notre-Dame de Paris - 6, Place du Parvis Notre-Dame, 4th arrondissement - No visit to Paris is complete without a visit to this famous gothic cathedral, which has graced the Ile de la Cité since 1160. Visitors come from around the world to admire its facade, flying buttresses, stained glass windows, and gargoyles. The soaring interior will take your breath away. Once you've toured the the cathedral, head outside and join the queue to climb its towers. Just be forewarned that there are no elevators here, and you're likely to be winded by the time you reach the top of the sharply spiraling staircase! However, the view from the top is well worth the climb, and it's a great opportunity to view the grinning and grimacing gargoyles up close. Visit the web site for more information, including directions, hours, and admission fees. (Admission to the cathedral itself is free, but the archaeological crypt, towers, and treasury charge a fee. The carte musées-monuments allows free admission to both the crypt and the towers, but not the treasury.) To access information on this and several other major sights - or to view the slick Flash version of this web site - log on to the Centre des Monuments Nationaux site. Nearest Métro station is Cité. Tip: While you're here, we recommend a visit to the nearby Conciergerie and Sainte-Chapelle.

Panthéon - Place du Panthéon, 5th arrondissement - Louis XV ordered this stately edifice to be built in the name of St. Geneviève, patron saint of Paris. Jacques-Germain Soufflot designed the church, and the foundations were laid in 1758. Financial difficulties delayed its completion; following Soufflot's death in 1780, his student Rondelet finally finished the building in 1789. But shortly after the church's completion, the building was claimed by the leaders of the Revolution, who declared that it would be turned into a mausoleum for great Frenchmen. The edifice changed roles again in the years that followed; it was later turned back to a church, then once again to a mausoleum. Today, the Panthéon stands as a monument to the great men of France. The structure is capped by a large dome, reminiscent of St. Paul's in London. Its airy interior is laid out in the form of a cross, with frescoes depicting the life of St. Geneviève adorning its walls. A model of Foucault's pendulum hangs from ceiling to floor in the center of the room, demonstrating the rotation of the earth on its axis. But the real visitor draw here lies below in the crypt, where dozens of France's notable figures are entombed, including Voltaire, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Emile Zola, Louis Braille, Pierre and Marie Curie, mathematician Gaspard Monge, and the architect, Soufflot. Visit the web site for detailed information, including directions, hours, and admission fees (the carte musées-monuments includes admission to this site). To access information on several other major Parisian sights - or to view the slick Flash version of this web site - log on to the Centre des Monuments Nationaux site. Nearest Métro station is Cardinal Lemoine.

Père-Lachaise - 16, rue du Repos - The largest and most prestigious of all Parisian cemeteries - covering over 100 acres - Père-Lachaise is the final resting place of dozens of international luminaries. Among the the many well-known residents of Père-Lachaise are artists Jean-Baptiste Camille Corot, Jacques-Louis David, Eugène Delacroix, Max Ernst, Théodore Géricault, Amedeo Modigliani, Camille Pissarro, and Georges Seurat; writers Honoré de Balzac, Colette, Paul Éluard, Molière, Marcel Proust, and Oscar Wilde; composers Vincenzo Bellini, Georges Bizet, Luigi Cherubini, Frédéric Chopin, and Gioacchino Rossini; dancer Isadora Duncan; and singers Maria Callas, Édith Piaf, and Jim Morrison. (The lead singer of The Doors is a very controversial figure here; his many fans have desecrated other tombs with graffiti, and many Parisians were pushing to have Morrison's grave removed. In the end, he's been allowed to stay, and guards watch over the paths leading to his grave to deter further vandalism.) Admission to the cemetery is free, and you can pick up a free map from the small office near the entrance. You can find detailed information on the unofficial Père-Lachaise web site, including hours, directions, maps, and more...however, all content on this web site is written in French. For information in English, check out Père-Lachaise on The Paris Pages, which includes a history, partial index of graves, and clickable maps. You can also visit the helpful Find A Grave web site for a more complete listing of people buried here; most entries include bios and photos. Nearest Métro stations are Père-Lachaise and Philippe-Auguste.

Sacré-Coeur - 35, rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre, 18th arrondissement - Perched atop Montmartre like a giant meringue, the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur (Sacred-Heart Basilica) was built as sort of a national penance for France's role in the Franco-Prussian war of 1870. Construction began in 1876, and the church was finally consecrated in 1919. You'll note that the architecture of this Romano-Byzantine style Catholic church stands in sharp contrast to the many Gothic and Medieval churches throughout the rest of the city. The airy interior is decorated with many rich mosaics, including a magnificent representation of Christ on the ceiling. There are also numerous statues, stained glass windows, and other decorations featuring Christ and many saints throughout the church. Once you've viewed the basilica itself, we recommend you buy a ticket and head up to the dome...the rooftop walkway around the dome affords some breathtaking views of the city. Visit the web site for additional information, including location, hours, services, and more. For additional information in English, check out Paris Tourisme, Paris Digest, and The Paris Pages.) The basilica is open daily from 6am-11pm (last visitor entry at 10:15pm); the dome and the crypt are open daily from 9am-7pm (6pm in winter). Admission to the basilica itself is free, but there are separate fees to access the crypt and/or dome. Nearest Métro stations are Abbesses and Anvers; take the funiculaire to save yourself an uphill hike.

Sainte-Chapelle - 4, boulevard du Palais, 1st arrondissement - Construction on this dainty chapel began in 1246. Louis IX (St. Louis, the Crusader king) built Sainte-Chapelle to house his relics, the foremost among them being (what he believed to be) Christ's crown of thorns. The church is nestled among Paris's law courts; look for the tall spire that rises above them. You'll enter this bi-level church on the ground floor. The most striking features of the lower chapel are its graceful buttresses and richly-colored ceiling patterned with fleurs-de-lys. You'll then climb a spiral staircase to the upper chapel, where you'll be dazzled by the jewel-toned stained glass windows that dominate the walls. They consist of over 7,200 square feet of glass depicting more than 1,000 biblical scenes, from the Garden of Eden through the Apocalypse (this last scene being displayed in the great rose window). You can easily tour Sainte-Chapelle in under an hour; we recommend you visit it on the same day as the Ile de la Cité's other leading attractions: Notre-Dame and Conciergerie. Visit the web site for detailed information, including directions, hours, admission fees (the carte musées-monuments includes admission to this site), overview, history, virtual tour, and more. To access information on several other major sights - or to view the slick Flash version of this web site - log on to the Centre des Monuments Nationaux site. Nearest Métro stations are Cité, Châtelet, and St.-Michel.

Day Trips - While you're in Paris, you definitely won't want to miss the opportunity to visit Versailles. And if you have the time and inclination, spend a day at EuroDisney!

Versailles - No trip to Paris would be complete without a trip to the magnificent Château de Versailles, which was home to the kings of France from 1661 (Louis XIV) to 1789 (Louis XVI). Begin your visit with a guided tour or audio tour of the château, including the State Apartments and Hall of Mirrors, as well as the lovely Royal Chapel. Next, explore the stately Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon buildings as well as the charming Queen's Hamlet. Finally, stroll through the grounds to view the beautiful gardens, park, pools and fountains, and orangery. Don't forget to wear good walking shoes! Visit the Château de Versailles web site for detailed information, including directions, hours (closed on Mondays), admission (the carte musées-monuments is valid here), suggested itineraries, shows, and more. Tip: If you're feeling hungry after a long day at the château, we found a wonderful restaurant directly across the street from the train station: À la Coiffe Bretonne, 10, avenue du Général de Gaulle. They serve a delicious array of dinner and dessert crêpes at very reasonable prices, and they accept travelers cheques and most major credit cards. Try the cheese and mushroom crêpe for dinner, and the "CCC" (chocolate, cream, and chestnut fondant) for dessert. Note: To get to Versailles, take the RER train - line C5 - to station Versailles Rive Gauche. This station is in zone 4, so if you've purchased a travel card for zones 1-2 or 1-3, be sure to purchase a roundtrip ticket before you board the train.

Disneyland Paris - If you've been roaming museums and churches for days on end and cultural overload is starting to set in, give yourself a day to kick back and have fun at Disneyland Paris (a.k.a. "EuroDisney"). Rediscover your inner child as you explore Main Street, U.S.A., Frontierland, Adventureland, Fantasyland, and Discoveryland. You'll find all of your favorite Disney rides - like Space Mountain, Big Thunder Mountain, and Pirates of the Caribbean - plus a few attractions that are unique to this park, like Indiana Jones and the Temple of Peril: Backwards!, Alice's Curious Labyrinth, and Adventure Isle. In addition, Disneyland Paris just introduced a brand new park: Walt Disney Studios. Look up all the information you need on the Disneyland Paris web site, including seasonal hours, admission, directions, and more. Note: To get to EuroDisney, take the RER train - line A4 - to station Parcs Disneyland. This station is in zone 5, so if you've purchased a travel card for zones 1-2 or 1-3, be sure to purchase a roundtrip ticket before you board the train.

Restaurants:

We dined at several vegetarian restaurants that Shay found in guide books and online, and we frequently stopped in random cafés for a simple sandwich on lovely French bread. We also found some wonderful little places just by wandering the streets and checking the menus that were displayed outside the restaurants. Unfortunately, we don't recall the names of most of those restaurants...however, you're sure to find some great eateries on your own, the same way we did.

Aquarius or Le Marais - 54, rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4th arrondissement - Probably the most famous vegetarian restaurants in Paris...and with good reason. (The restaurant was called Aquarius the last time we visited, but Frommer's indicates that it is now called Le Marais.) The menu is extensive and very good...we especially liked the veggie pâté. (See reviews on Frommer's, VegDining, and VegParis [scroll down] for additional feedback.) We loved the fact that that there is no smoking in this restaurant, as it seems that Parisians tend to smoke constantly during meals. Good location in the Marais; Aquarius was convenient to our hotel, and there were lots of great little wine bars within a several-block radius. Open Monday through Saturday, noon-10:15pm (closed on Sundays). Nearest Métro stations are Rambuteau, St Paul, and Hôtel de Ville.

Food Court/Restaurants at the Carrousel du Louvre - 99, rue de Rivoli, 1st arrondissement - While taking photos of a large arch near the open end of the "U"-shaped Louvre, we noticed steps leading down to the "Carrousel du Louvre" boutiques. We walked down to check it out, and happened to find a large "gourmet food court" among the shops. This is an excellent place to grab an inexpensive meal. There are a wide variety of food vendors; in addition to the ubiquitous crèpes and an excellent quiche/tarte stand, you'll find such diverse cuisines as Spanish, Italian, Moroccan, Lebanese, Asian, Tex-Mex, and more -- even a burger place! It looks as if the web site owner may have let the domain name lapse, but we've heard that the food court is still there.

Piccolo Teatro - 6, rue des Ecouffes, 4th arrondissement - This little gem of a restaurant was our favorite find in Paris...we dined here on three separate occasions during our stay! It's a small, cozy, and romantic place (which means a very limited number of tables), so we recommend you dine early to beat the crowds. Piccolo Teatro specializes in gratins: a selection of veggies baked in cheese. They also offer other vegetarian dishes, and their menus (multi-course meals at a set price) are an excellent value. We recommend the Revenez'y gratin (Shay orders hers sans oignon); the assiette végétarienne was also very good. (But steer clear of the agar-agar dessert - bleagh!) Piccolo Teatro used to have its own web site at www.piccoloteatro.com; however, it seems they let the domain name lapse...when we tried the link, it now spawns numerous, annoying pop-up windows. (Hopefully they'll reclaim the domain soon.) However, you can find reviews and additional info at Paris Voice (scroll down), Yahoo! Travel, Hip Guide, VegParis (scroll down), and Let's Go:Paris (scroll down), as well as Cuisine Vegetarienne and Mmmm! (both in French). Open Tuesday through Sunday noon-3pm and 7-11:30pm (closed on Mondays; may be closed during the month of August). Nearest Métro stations are Hôtel de Ville and St.-Paul.

Le Refuge des Fondus - 17, rue des Trois Frères, 18th arrondissement - A completely unique dining experience! Le Refuge des Fondus has been a Montmartre tradition for over 30 years. The restaurant specializes in just one thing: fondue! You can either order fondue savoyarde (cheese fondue), which is served with bread, or fondue bourguignonne (beef fondue), in which you cook skewered pieces of meat in hot oil. (Naturally, we recommend the cheese fondue.) The set-price menu features a cocktail snack tray, your choice of fondue, fruit salad, and red or white wine. The wine is served in a biberon, which is a glass baby bottle...complete with rubber nipple! Try to arrive shortly after the restaurant opens, as it fills up quickly. Side-by-side tables line either side of the restaurant; the person who sits against the wall literally has to climb over the table to get to their seat. Visit the web site for overview, photos, QuickTime movie, and even a recipe for cheese fondue. (All content is in French.) Tip: It's a wise idea to find a restroom before you go here, or wait until after you leave...the restaurant's only loo consists of a unisex "squat toilet" in the rear courtyard. (If you've never used one, trust us...you don't want to!) Nearest Métro station is Abbesses.

La Victoire Suprême du Coeur - 41, rue des Bourdonnais, 1st arrondissement - A bright and cheerful restaurant offering delicious and innovative vegetarian meals. Try the daily specials; they create some very tasty dishes with seitan and other meat substitutes. The restaurant is operated by devotees of Sri Chinmoy (an Indian-born spiritual leader/guru); but don't worry...nobody is going to try to convert you! You'll see a few photos of Chinmoy and lots of his artwork decorating the walls, but other than that, it feels like a typical vegetarian restaurant. The staff are professional and polite, and the overall dining experience is highly enjoyable. Visit the web site for an overview, menu, location, and reviews. (See VegDining and Epinions for additional reviews, and Cuisine Vegetarienne for a brief write-up [in French].) Open Monday through Friday from noon-2:30pm and 6-10pm; and on Saturday from noon-10pm (closed on Sundays). Note: Nearest Métro station is Châtelet.

Low Rider - 42, bis rue de Rivoli, 4th arrondissement - This restaurant/bar was very convenient for us...it was right next to our hotel! We didn't actually try a full meal here, but we stopped in several times for late-night sandwiches. (Something as simple as a cheese sandwich somehow manages to taste heavenly in this town...!) The staff were friendly, and the place has a comfy, laid-back feel. Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Nearest Métro station is Hôtel de Ville.

Additional Vegetarian Restaurants - We found several additional vegetarian restaurants while researching links for this section; see below for links and details. Hopefully we'll get to try some of these places the next time we're in Paris (whenever that may be!), and we'll be sure to update these listings with our personal feedback then.

	Au Grain de Folie - 24, rue la Vieuville, 18th arrondissement - We actually intended to eat here during our last visit to Paris, but the place only holds about six tables and it was packed when we arrived. (We were hungry and didn't want to wait, so we went to a nearby pizza restaurant instead.) However, we've heard that the food here is excellent (see reviews on Frommer's, VegParis (scroll down), and Epinions, as well as Cuisine Vegetarienne [in French]), so we're going to make it a point to dine here during our next trip to Paris. Open daily from 12:30-2:30pm and 7:30-10:30pm. Nearest Métro stations is Abbesses.
	Entre Ciel et Terre - 5, rue Hérold, 1st arrondissement - Gourmet vegetarian restaurant located near the Louvre. Visit the web site for hours, map, and menus. (Web site entirely in French. For additional info, see review on VegParis.) Open Monday through Friday, noon-3pm and 7-10pm (closed weekends and during the month of August). Nearest Métro stations are Bourse, Sentier, Les Halles, Palais Royal, and Louvre Rivoli.
	Le Grenier de Notre Dame - 18, rue de la Bûcherie, 5th arrondissement - Cozy restaurant offering vegetarian specialties, located within walking distance of the Notre Dame. We've seen a number of rave reviews, and we look forward to trying this place out for ourselves. Visit the web site for information (in French), menus, map, and more. For additional information and reviews, see VegDining, VegParis, Epinions, and Virtual Tourist, as well as Cuisine Vegetarienne (in French). Open seven days a week, from noon-2:30pm and 7-11pm. Nearest Métro stations are Maubert-Mutualité, St.-Michel, and Cité.
	La Petite Légume - 36 rue des Boulangers, 5th arrondissement - A small vegetarian eatery within a health food store. (See VegParis and Epinions for reviews, and Cuisine Vegetarienne for a brief write-up [in French].) Nearest Métro stations are Cardinal-Lemoine and Jussieu.
	Les Quatre et Une Saveurs - 72, rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, 5th arrondissement - Very popular vegetarian (vegan) restaurant featuring Japanese-style organic food. (See reviews on Lonely Planet's Paris RestoGuide and VegParis.) Open Tuesday through Sunday from noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm (closed on Mondays, and during the month of August). Nearest Métro station is Cardinal-Lemoine.
	Tien Hiang - 20-22, rue Nationale, 13th arrondissement - Asian-style restaurant with an extensive menu featuring lacto-vegetarian items and similicarnés, which are soy/vegetable-based products that simulate the taste and texture of meat. Open Wednesday through Monday, 11:30am-10:30pm (closed on Tuesdays). Nearest Métro stations are Porte d'Ivry, Jacques Bonsergent, and Gare de l’Est.

Clubs & Bars:

	Surprisingly, even though we spent well over a week in Paris, we really didn't get to any nightclubs. Instead, we wandered the streets and looked for cozy little bars where we could sample local beers and the just-released Beaujolais Nouveau. (Our trip coincided with the mid-November release of this popular fruity red wine.)
	Goth Clubs - Paris hosts a number of goth clubs...which perhaps isn't so surprising in this city of gargoyles and gothic architecture, where cemeteries happen to be popular tourist attractions. For a complete list of clubs, visit the the International Goth Club Listing. (French clubs are in the right-hand column; you'll need to scroll a little more than halfway down the page. For some reason, the European countries are not listed in alphabetical order...UK and Germany appear first on the list, and France appears further down, between Spain and Greece.)
	Auld Alliance - 80 rue François Miron, 4th arrondissement - While strolling through the neighborhood near our hotel, we found a pleasant surprise... a true Scottish pub right off of Paris's rue de Rivoli! Once you've stepped through the doors, you'll honestly feel as if you're in the UK. It goes without saying that you can get all of your favorite Scottish and English beers and ciders on tap here; however, we were amazed to see that they also carried Irn Bru - the sickly-sweet, bubblegum-flavored soda that is popular among the Scots. The bartender and most of the patrons were British, so it was nice to be able to hold a conversation without having to reference our French dictionary. This place is definitely worth a stop if you're in the area. Slàinte! Visit the web site for a location map and information on the pub, upcoming events, Scottish ales, and more. Nearest Métro station is St.-Paul.
	Ballyroan - 51, rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre - We found this wonderful Irish pub right by the Sacré Coeur in Montmartre. We had finished our sightseeing at the basilica and the nearby Espace Salvador Dalí, and were looking to kill some time while we waited for Le Refuge des Fondus to open. The ambiance is pure Irish. You'll be greeted with a friendly welcome, and a nice array of Irish beers (and Strongbow cider, too!). We spent a couple of hours here, enjoying our drinks and writing out postcards. We highly recommend a visit to this great little pub the next time you're in the area...you might even catch some live music while you're there. Ballyroan is part of the Corcoran's pub group, which operates two other Irish pubs in Paris (Corcoran's Clichy in Montmartre and Corcoran's Saint-Michel in the Quartier Latin). Ballyroan is open seven days a week, and serves food from 10am-10pm. Nearest Métro stations are Abbesses and Anvers.
	Low Rider - 42, bis rue de Rivoli, 4th arrondissement - This bar/restaurant was very convenient for us...it was right next to our hotel! We stopped by here a few times for drinks (try the local beer, "1664") and for late-night sandwiches. (Something as simple as a cheese sandwich somehow manages to taste heavenly in this town...!) The bartenders were friendly, and the place has a comfy, laid-back feel. Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Nearest Métro station is Hôtel de Ville.
	La Tartine - 24 rue de Rivoli, 4th arrondissement - This wine bar was just a few blocks from our hotel. It's a surprisingly popular little place, with a very old world feel. The vintage décor was both charming and grungy at the same time. (Let's just say that while we enjoyed our drinks here very much, we had no desire to order any food...if the bar itself is dusty and tatty, then what is the kitchen like?! Besides, all the cigarette smoke in there would have ruined a meal, anyway.) That said, La Tartine certainly manages to do a good business, and has garnered many glowing reviews (see Frommer's, ParisVoice, and [in French] Parissi and L'Internaute). ParisVoice proclaims Tartine one of the city's best wine bars, while ChezVous states that it is Paris's oldest wine bar. The prices are reasonable, and there are over 60 different wines available. Open Wednesday through Monday from 9am-10:30pm (may open at noon on Wednesdays; closed on Tuesdays and during the month of August). Nearest Métro station is St.-Paul.

Accommodations:

Paris is teeming with hotels. Shay has had several stays in forgettable youth hostels and budget hotels, none of which are worth recommending here. We stayed at a decent hotel (see below) as part of our Go-Today vacation package, but the rooms were extremely small and cramped...if you're booking your own hotel, you may be able to find something roomier for the same rate. Try checking some of the major online travel guides (Frommer's, Time Out, Fodors) for recommendations.

Hôtel France Louvre - 40, rue de Rivoli, 4th arrondissement - We couldn't possibly have asked for a better location...the three-star Hôtel France Louvre is located on the main street in the Marais district, a block or two from a Métro station (Hôtel de Ville) and just a few minutes' walk from the Ile de de la Cité and Notre Dame. The hotel's namesake - the Louvre - is an easy 20-minute hike. The rooms are clean and decorated in pretty pastels, and each room has its own TV, phone, mini bar, and en-suite bath. After some of the dumpy hostels and hotels Shay has stayed in, this place felt downright luxurious. However, our room also happened to be unbelievably cramped. (It certainly didn't have the spaciousness of the room pictured on the web site.) The bed took up most of the room; it was positioned in a corner, with perhaps about two feet of space between the foot of the bed and the window wall, and not much more than that on the remaining open side. The small wardrobe offered little storage space; Mike didn't even bother to unpack his suitcase. (We had to store both suitcases between the foot of the bed and the window, as there was no other space in the room.) The bathroom was a joke; you practically had to step over the toilet to get into the shower, and you could barely move within the confines of the skinny shower stall. A claustrophobic person would go crazy in that room! But apart from the cramped quarters, it was a very nice hotel with dozens of great attractions, restaurants, bars, and shops right at our doorstep. Whether or not you stay at this hotel, we highly recommend staying somewhere in the Marais.

Note: There are a lot of links throughout this section. Although we try to maintain these pages on a regular basis, web sites go up, come down, and change addresses at a staggering pace. So if you happen to notice any bad links, please contact us so that we can update our listings. Many thanks!